Thursday, 7 October 2010

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 10/7/10

Northwest:

A Makeshift Memorial for Dallas Kloke at the Summit of Mount Erie

--The body of a former Oak Harbor school teacher was recovered by a search-and-rescue helicopter team last Thursday near Mount Larrabee in the Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.  Dallas Kloke, a 71-year-old Anacortes resident, was discovered at an elevation of about 6,600 feet on the Paleiades peaks, according to Deputy George Ratazczak, search-and-rescue coordinator for the Whatcom County Sheriff's Office. The recovery took place at about 9 a.m. that day and went smoothly, he said.  Kloke was a life-long climber with hundreds of first ascents in the Cascades.  However, he was always most noted for his tireless route development on Mount Erie near Anacortes.  To read more, click here.  To see a memorial thread at cascadeclimbers.com, click here.

--The disappearance of a hiker on Sauk Mountain in the North Cascades has left Skagit County Search and Rescue personnel questioning whether she's still up there. "The most likely scenario is she wandered off and got lost," sheriff's Chief Deputy Will Reichardt said on Tuesday. But officials are considering other possibilities as they look for Patricia Kreiger. "There is some evidence to indicate that maybe she walked out," Reichardt said. "We're not closed-minded to the possibility there is foul play."  To read more, click here.


--One day soon, hikers on the Glacier Basin Trail will cross an unnamed creek about halfway up the path with hardly a second thought about the short wooden bridge under their boots.  Such is the case with most of Carl Fabiani’s projects. You might not know his name, but if you’ve hiked in Mount Rainier National Park in the last 45 years, you know his work.  Whether chopping through downed trees or bureaucratic red tape, Fabiani has been building and repairing trails in the park since he graduated from Buckley’s White River High School in 1965.  To read more, click here.

Sierra:

--There's not much information, but it appears that there was a knife fight at the Mobile Mart in Lee Vining on October 3rd.  There were five people involved in the fight and two were injured.  The police have suspects in custody.  The Mobile is a central eating establishment that almost all climbers in the Sierra visit regularly.  To read more, click here.

Desert Southwest:

--Prolific first ascentionist Tony Lusk died of a massive heart attack on Sunday.  Lusk was a well-known climber in the Southern Arizona community and was responsible for more than four hundred routes throughout throughout the area including crags like The Ruins, the Outcroppings, the Boneyard, Ridgeline, Sky Valley, the Tomestone, the Outback, and the Steep. To read more, click here.

--A real estate broker survived six-days without food or water in  Joshua Tree National Park by sitting still and writing messages to his family on his hat, telling them what kind of funeral he wanted, who they could trust and how much he loved them, his wife said.  Edward Rosenthal, 64, was on a day hike when he made a wrong turn trying to get back to his car on September 24th, Nicole Kaplan told The Associated Press by telephone after her husband was rescued by a San Bernardino County sheriff's helicopter crew. To read more, click here.

--A hiker this week became stranded in Red Rock Canyon National Conservation area over night.  After the sun went down he contacted authorities by cell phone instead of continuing.  To read more, click here.


Notes from All Over:

--Black Diamond has an extremely interesting report on the dangers of fixed draws at sport climbing areas.  It appears that carabiners become badly grooved over time and can cut the rope!  To read the report, click here.



--The preceding video is one of the coolest things that you'll ever see.  Extreme climber Drew Bristol made his way down into an active volcano in the South Pacific boiling lava while being filmed by vulcanologist Geoff Mackley.  To read more, click here.

--Some months ago, we reported on the development of a Swedish crag that was dominated by somewhat tasteless route names.  Nazi names were splashed across route topos in the local guidebook.  It appears that the chairman of the Swedish Climbing Committee has banned "offensive" names at all local crags.  This move has been questioned by climbers all over the world.  Who determines what names are offensive?  How can such a thing be monitored?  To read more, click here.


--From now until December 15th, Mugs Stump Award applications are being accepted.  The Mugs Stump Grant is was designed to honor the late Mugs Stump by providing the means to small teams who wish to complete a significant first ascent in good style.  To read more, click here.

--Throughout the summer a number of different parties visited peaks in the Djangart Valley and Torugart-Too mountains of Kyrgyzstan. Neither of these areas see much action, but climbers made a small dent on the many unclimbed peaks in the area.  To read more, click here.

Wednesday, 6 October 2010

Conditions Report - October 6 2010

NORTHWEST:

--Forest Service Closes Mountain Loop Highway: The Forest Service is closing the Mountain Loop Highway to vehicle traffic Oct. 12-15 at milepost 38 to 39.5 near Forgotten Mt. Estates to install a culvert. This closure is on the gravel section of the highway northeast of Barlow Pass.  Access to White Chuck Overlook parking, Forgotten Mountain Estates, and Forest Service road 2095 going to Mt. Pugh Trailhead is from Darrington.   Access to Bedal Campground (closed for the season), Sloan Creek/North Fork Sauk Trailhead (Glacier Peak Wilderness), Monte Cristo Lakes, Goat Lake/Elliot Creek Trailhead and Barlow Pass is from Granite Falls. Expect heavy truck traffic from Darrington to the construction site. For updated information call the Darrington Ranger District at 360-436-1155.

--I'm not sure how long the good weather will last in the Cascades. It's that time of the year where weekends are hit-or-miss. However, this last one looked pretty good. Check out this report for the Improbable Traverse on Guye Peak.Also check out some fall colors of the North Cascades here.


 The Improbable Traverse. Photo credit Ed Hobbick.

--"Clearly folks are getting antsy for the season to start." Yep. Check out this Muir ski report. Dirty, but still carve-able.

--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.

--Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.

--Webcam for Leavenworth and the Stuart Range.

--Forecast for Mount Rainier.-- Route and Conditions Report from Mt. Baker Rangers: Mount Baker Climbing Blog.

--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.

--Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.

--Webcams for Mount Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, Leavenworth.

--An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be found here.

--Up-to-date Pacific Northwest ice conditions may be found here.

RED ROCK CANYON:


--Check out this recent thread about current temps. Red Rock is cooling off. Also see this thread for camping beta.

--The scenic loop drive now closes at 5pm, effective Monday September 20th. See this thread and the BLM site for more information.

--Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.

--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.--The entrance to the scenic drive had a parking area for those who wanted to carpool up until approximately April of 2009. That lot has now become employee parking and people who want to carpool are required to park at the lot outside the Scenic Drive exit.

--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.

JOSHUA TREE:


--Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.

--Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.


SIERRA:

--I'm not sure what VonTrap style exactly means, but check out this Conness report. Blue skies all around for last weekend. Extra points for the hat.

--For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.

--Webcams for Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass.

ALASKA RANGE:

-- For the most current updates on Alaska, please see our Dispatch Blog.

--Forecast for Denali.

ALPS:



--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.

--Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.




Tuesday, 5 October 2010

The Pain and Pleasure of Crampons on Approach Shoes

Whoah. Crampons on approach shoes? That's crazy talk. Crampons belong on boots!

Most of us couldn't agree more with this sentiment. But most of us also don't want to walk across a short section of ice wearing boots for an alpine rock climb and then carry said boots in our backpacks when we put on our rock shoes.

Sometimes it makes a lot of sense to wear crampons on approach shoes. It's not comfortable and it's not fun. Indeed, half the time that you're doing this, it feels like your foot is going to come right out of the shoe. On every step the crampons stick in the ice and have a nearly imperceptible hold your foot. It feels a little bit like you're walking in sticky mud.


Approach shoes were not designed for such a use. They bend easily and it is difficult to walk up steeper terrain while wearing them. The strap-connectors on many crampons are hard plastic and these commonly dig into your ankles.

There are some crampon styles that work more effectively with approach shoes. Aluminum crampons are not really designed for standard mountaineering where you are going to wear your crampons all day. Instead, such crampons are light, have a low profile and often fit well on approach shoes. Aluminum crampons like the Black Diamond Neve Strap Aluminum Crampons and the Stubai Ultralight Universal Crampons are perfect for this type of use.


The pain of crampons on approach shoes is at least somewhat worth it. As with so many other things in climbing, the pleasure comes after the pain. And in this case, the pleasure is no heavy boots in your pack while working your way up a massive alpine rock climb.

--Jason D. Martin

Monday, 4 October 2010

Dragontail Peak: Backbone Ridge

The following article was written by AAI guide Alasdair Turner and posted on his blog. The Fall season is now truly upon us and this is a bit out of season, but it's never too early to get psyched for next year!
__________________________________________________

Last week I did a great trip to the Enchantments for a bit of rock climbing with Tom. This was by far my best work trip of the year. We started with a morning of climbing at Index, on the lower Town Wall. We climbed Great Northern Slab, Japanese Gardens and Godzilla. From there we did the drive to Leavenworth and climbed Classic Crack. The goal of the day was to teach an Englishman how to crack climb. We tried, but as with all crack climbers first days it was a bit of a struggle. All in all Tom did a pretty good job despite showing full on British crack climbing technique by attempting to lay back of face climb around all the cruxes.

The next day we hiked into Colchuck lake to use our newly learned crack climbing technique on Dragontail Peak. Is there any better way to test a new crack climber than to put them on a 30 meter long 5 inch offwidth crack? Below are some photos of the climb.

Tom in the offwidth.

More offwidth fun.

The top of the offwidth pitch.

Looking down the route.

Midway up the route.

Colchuck lake in the background.

The summit.

Sunset on the summit usually means its going to be a long day/night.

We got back to camp sometime after dark, drank beer, ate food and went to sleep. The hike out the next morning was quite nice and we did a little climbing in the afternoon, which was also followed by beer.

A pika posing for a perfect photo.

Dragonfly at the lake.

The trip was ended by a run up OuterSpace the Leavenworth classic.

Tom on the crux pitch with high winds creating some interesting clouds.

--Alasdair Turner, AAI Instructor and Guide

Sunday, 3 October 2010

October and November Climbing Events

-- Oct 2 -- Boone, NC -- Trip Crown Bouldering Comp

-- Oct 2 -- Bellingham, WA -- Extreme Weather NW Washington talk

-- Oct 7-9 -- Seattle, WA -- Mountainfilm Tour

-- Oct 8-10 -- Red River Gorge, KY -- Rocktoberfest 2010

-- Oct 8-10 -- San Luis Obispo, CA -- Pine Mountain Pull Down

-- Oct 10-12 -- Golden, CO -- Craggin Classic

-- Oct 14 -- San Diego, CA -- Allied Climbers Annual Fundraiser

-- Oct 23-24 -- Las Vegas, NV -- 2010 National Climbing Management Summit: This fall the Access Fund will host the 2010 National Climbing Management Summit in partnership with the National Park Service, Bureau of Land Management, and US Forest Service in Las Vegas, NV on October 23rd and 24th. The summit will bring land managers and field-level personnel who are involved in recreation policy and climbing management together to discuss best practices for

-- Oct 24-26 -- Joshua Tree, CA -- ClimbSmart

-- Oct 24-26 -- New River Gorge, WV -- Warrior's Way SPORT Camp

-- Oct 29-Nov -- Southwest various locations -- Chris Sharma Slideshow Tour

-- Oct 29-30 -- Red Rock, NV -- Make A Difference Day - Service project at Red Rock Canyon (contact Lisa at lvclc.admin@gmail.com)

-- Oct 30-Nov -- Banff, Canada -- Banff Mountian Film Fest

-- Oct 30-Nov 7 -- Italy -- International Mountain Summit Festival

-- Nov 5 -- Philadelphia, PA -- Penn Pull Down Bouldering Competition --  215.746.8622

-- Nov 6 -- Horse Pens Steele, AL -- Triple Crown Bouldering Series

-- Nov 7 -- Seattle, WA -- Northwest Snow and Avalanche Summit

-- Nov 11 -- El Paso, TX --  Reel Rock Film Tour  

-- Nov 19 -- Sunnyvale, CA -- Bloc Party: A Planet Granite Bouldering Series  

-- Nov 20 -- Seattle, WA -- Stone Gardens 2010 Seattle Bouldering Challenge

Saturday, 2 October 2010

Weekend Warrior - Videos to get you stoked!

There are many ways to train, and in a previous weekend warrior I showed you some fantastic people who would make amazing climbers.  In this weekend's edition of the warrior, I have found a man who truly can be described as a warrior.  He is currently the inspiration for how I train to crack climb, as well as to impress the opposite gender.  Some may say he simply has unresolved anger management issues, but I would prefer to say he simply has a dedication and passion to training as hard as possible for the mountains.  Without hesitation, I present to you the "Punch-and-kick-a-rock-as-hard-as-you-can Training Method."



I suppose I may as well keep the 80s theme going and share with you Part 1 of "Opera Vertical."  I'm not exactly sure what this is, but I'm okay with that.  Also, it is in French, so in my opinion it gets bonus points.


Watch opera vertical in Extreme Sports  |  View More Free Videos Online at Veoh.com

Friday, 1 October 2010

How Those Bolts Got There

The Canadian guide, Mike Barter, put up the following video on bolt placement. This is a rather rudimentary look at bolting. He gives the basics so that you know how that bolt actually got there, but there is a great deal more to placing bolts.



The best way to learn how to place a bolt properly is to work with an experienced bolter on replacing old bolts. This process will allow you to see where others have made mistakes. Understanding the most basic bolting mistakes is a great way to avoid making such mistakes.

The unfortunate reality is that most bolts are placed improperly. The fortunate reality is that most of these bolts that were placed improperly only have minor mistakes in their placement that make them unlikely to pull out most of the time. It's incredibly lucky that more people aren't injured or killed every year from poorly placed bolts.

If you decide to start bolting, it's important to do it right. Don't go out there and "just-figure-it-out." Seek out advice and guidance first...

--Jason D. Martin