Wednesday, 8 December 2010

Conditions Report - December 8 2010

NORTHWEST:

--FA at Strobach, dubbed "The Responsible Ladies Man" (WI5). Nice work, guys. Click here for the full report.

 Responsible Ladies Man. Photo Credit Skander Spies.


-- Millennium Wall (near Leavenworth, WA) ice beta can be found here. Further east you can find ice at Vantage. Click here. 

--North Cascades Highway is closed for the winter. Click here.


--The video shows the conditions over the past weekend at Baker. But, this is soon to be followed by rain, then another big dump of snow for the weekend....

--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.

--Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.

--Webcam for Leavenworth and the Stuart Range.

--Forecast for Mount Rainier.-- Route and Conditions Report from Mt. Baker Rangers: Mount Baker Climbing Blog.

--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.

--Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.

--Webcams for Mount Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, Leavenworth.

--An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be found here.

--Up-to-date Pacific Northwest ice conditions may be found here.

RED ROCK CANYON:


--The scenic loop drive now closes at 5pm, effective Monday September 20th. See this thread and the BLM site for more information.

--Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.

--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.--The entrance to the scenic drive had a parking area for those who wanted to carpool up until approximately April of 2009. That lot has now become employee parking and people who want to carpool are required to park at the lot outside the Scenic Drive exit.

--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.

JOSHUA TREE:


--Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.

--Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.


SIERRA:

-- June Lake ice is IN! Check it out.

--For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.

--Webcams for Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass.

ALASKA RANGE:

--Conditions in the range are not currently available.  But we are taking reservations for both Alaska Range Ascents and Denali trips.  To learn more, click here.  We will begin regular conditions reports in the Alaska Range in late April.

ALPS:


--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.

--Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.




Tuesday, 7 December 2010

The Backpack as Luggage

Air travel is a pain.  And frankly, I'm sick of it.  I sometimes think it would be better to drive eight hours than to take a short flight...

I used to really enjoy the process of flying...when I was eight or nine.  But now as an adult, I find it to be an expensive, uncomfortable and nerve-racking process.  It's a game.  What will I have to pay for?  Will I get to use the arm-rest?  Have the others in my row elected to use deodorant?  Will my neighbor's body fat "share" my seat?  Will my luggage get there?  How long will I have to sit on a plane that isn't moving?

I hate it.

But I also recognize that it is part of the process.  To go anywhere really cool, you have to fly.  And flying somewhere on a climbing trip means that you have to check baggage.

Obviously one of the key components to a flight is your backpack.  There are a couple of ways to deal with this ever-so-important item.

A smaller pack (under 3500 cubic inches) can often be brought into the cabin with you.  On foreign mountaineering trips, we often recommend that climbers stow their boots and hard-shells in the pack.  These are things that you won't be able to replace if your luggage gets lost.

Some people suggest carrying a rock rack or harness in your carry-on.  If you elect to do this, expect to spend significant time at the security check-point.  If you have things on your harness, don't forget to check your harness knife, otherwise they'll take it away.

This should be common sense, but don't even consider carrying an ice rack, ice tools or an ice axe in your carry-on.  You can expect to have significant problems trying to get through security with such items...and an attempt to bring so many sharp things through, could lead to all kinds of additional problems (i.e. a "backroom" search).

If you intend on checking a backpack, it should be noted that pack-straps can cause significant issues on the different machines used in airports to maneuver luggage.  It's important to pull the shoulder straps tight and to clip the waist belt around the body of the pack.

In this photo, note that the shoulder straps have been pulled as tightly as possible and 
that the waist belt has been clipped on the opposite side of the pack.

There are still a lot of straps that could get caught, but by pulling everything tight, 
there are a lot less loops that could get caught in airport machinery.

Some airlines will simply put a backpack in a large plastic sack.  This would also be a perfectly acceptable way for you to ensure that nothing on your pack got stuck.

Airline travel is terrible...but to do what we love to do, it is often a necessary evil.

--Jason D. Martin

Monday, 6 December 2010

Yosemite Rockfall

In October, it happened again.  Massive boulders sheared away from the East Buttress of El Capitan and fell thousands of feet to the floor of Yosemite Valley.  Nearby climbers were unaffected, but had they or anything else been beneath the rockfall, the results would have been catastrophic.

Rockfall is part of the natural cycle in Yosemite Valley as well as on every mountain on the planet.  Many of us have encountered inexplicable rockfall while in the mountains. And many of us have thought, "wow, that thing has been sitting there for millions of years, and it just decided to come down while I was here...how lucky for me..."

While this is a part of life for climbers and for the mountains, it is important to remember that there are over four million visitors to Yosemite National Park every year.  And while we are constantly on edge about the possibility of rockfall, your average Hawaiian-shirt-wearing tourist has no idea that there is a danger present.  As such, the NPS has hired teams of geologists to study the cycles of rockfall and to try to determine a way to predict it.

As you might think, this isn't the easiest thing in the world to do.

The team the produces Yosemite Nature Notes has put together an engaging episode on rockfall in Yosemite Valley.  You can view the video below:



To learn more about rockfall in Yosemite Valley, check out the Yosemite National Park webpage on the topic.  To learn more about what industry is doing to protect highways and buildings from natural rockfall, check out the Swiss Federal Institute for Forest, Snow, and Landscape Research and their studies on rockfall here.

Rockfall is part of life in the mountains.  And unfortunately also part of what creates injuries and fatalities in the mountains.  It's not clear that any scientific research on rockfall could ever be employed by climbers, but it is good to know that there are people out there trying to understand the natural cycles of rockfall...

--Jason D. Martin

Saturday, 4 December 2010

Weekend Warrior - Videos To Get You Stoked!

Surprising as it may be, my work here at the Institute could very well be described as a desk job.  Don't get me wrong, I am so thankful for and truly enjoy my work; sharing the mountains with individuals I wholeheartedly believe is my "raison d'ĂȘtre."  It may seem glorious to be talking on the phone for hours about people's climbing goals, or writing email after email about the next big expedition we have coming up; however, I'm still on the phone all day and writing emails all day.

We here at the institute live for the weekend just like you do, and try to mix in a little climbing or skiing every chance we get.  The employees over at Outdoor Research down in Seattle are obviously in the same boat, as this video so clearly shows.




Needless to say, by the time you are watching this - I will already be on the slopes.  If you'd like an idea of where I will be, watch the following video.  Just please know, that I will have two planks strapped to my feet, not one.  Also, I probably won't be riding a lift.



--Andrew Yasso, Program & Expedition Coordinator

Friday, 3 December 2010

Film Review: 127 Hours

The news spread through the outdoor adventure community like a wildfire.

A climber and canyoneer named Aron Ralston was involved in an accident in Bluejohn Canyon near Moab.  But this was no normal accident.  While descending a steep section, Ralston dislodged a boulder which caught his arm and pinned him.  After being stuck in the canyon without food or water for days, the young man was forced to do the unthinkable.

He amputated his arm with a pocketknife.

Why did this happen?  Ralston was notorious for gleefully flirting with danger.  Indeed, he was buried up to his neck in an avalanche just a few months before the Bluejohn Canyon incident.  It appeared that he had a record of being careless in the mountains.  He was heavily criticized for soloing when he performed his "self-rescue" in the canyon.  The theory being that if there was somebody there, they could have went for help.  And he was also roundly criticized for not telling anyone where he was going.

After the incident, many people -- both outdoors people and media talking heads -- attacked Ralston for soloing the canyon.  People said that it was irresponsible or somehow wrong to go into the backcountry without a partner.  I would respectfully disagree.  Solo adventures by experienced backcountry enthusiasts are incredibly common in every type of wilderness travel, from climbing, to backpacking, to skiing, to canyoneering...

There is some legitimacy, however,  to the second criticism.  A responsible backcountry user should do everything in his or her power to make sure that somebody knows where he or she is.  And while itineraries sometimes change, they often only change a little bit.  One is generally still in the same geographic area, so if you don't come home after a trip, at least SAR has a search grid to work with.


After things cooled off a bit, Ralston wrote a book about his experience entitled, Between a Rock and a Hard Place.  This book was recently adapted into a feature film entitled 127 Hours directed by Academy Award winner Danny Boyle and staring James Franco.

For the most part, the film is a tight, artistic and engrossing account of Ralston's ordeal.  The entire piece feels a lot like the film version of Touching the Void.  In each of the movies, the poor choices that the characters make disappear into harrowing survival stories and we completely forget about them.  It's hard to be too judgmental when a person is in so much pain and enduring so much terror.

Indeed, the beating heart of 127 Hours is an issue that many outdoor adventurers and enthusiasts have a hard time coming to terms with.  Outdoor adventure sports can be positive experiences that bring people together.  They can cement deep relationships and provide life-altering personal insights.  But we all know that these same sports provide thrills that can be powerful intoxicants and can lead one down a dark path away from the positive aspects of outdoor adventure and into selfishness and obsession.  This is where Ralston (James Franco) was at the beginning of the film, imprisoned by arrogance and self-absorption.  His trapped arm then becomes a metaphor for the trap that he has built around himself out of the negativity in his psyche.  His eventual escape from Bluejohn is then also a metaphor for his escape from his previous life and the shallowness that accompanied it.


Films are generally constructed in three acts.  There's an introduction where the characters and the story are defined.  The first act is usually capped off by an important event which significantly raises the stakes for the character.  The second act is the meat of the story and it is also finished with a climactic event.  The third act usually includes the film's climax and closes out the story. 

Though this is a very good film, it is not without flaw.  The weakest part of 127 Hours is in the first act.  The problem is twofold.  First, the dialogue and the interaction between the characters is stilted and somewhat unrealistic.  Screenwriters Danny Boyle and Simon Beaufoy, as well as the cast, would have done well to spend some time in the mountains or in the canyons with real outdoors people.  The interaction between Aron Ralston and two attractive young women (Kate Mara and Amber Tamblyn) that he meets in the desert is weak and Hollywoodish.  They simply don't talk to each other the way that people talk to each other when they meet in the wilderness.  Instead, the characters have an interaction which is sexually charged and completely bereft of realism.

Most outdoorspeople really like to see women working together in the mountains.  When we see two female partners at the crag, they are usually dialed.  There's something offensive about this sequence where a know-it-all guy drops in to help two damsels in distress and it turns into a flirt fest.  The stereotype of the no-nothing woman in the outdoors is dated and sexist.  All of the parties involved in this production should have known better than to rely on a weak clichĂ©, especially when it comes to portraying individuals who are balanced and intelligent backcountry users.

Trailer for 127 Hours

The second problem in the first act revolves around the same interaction.  Ralston and his female companions decide that they are going to drop into a hidden pool deep within a canyon.  Of course the pool is crystal clear and absolutely beautiful.  The reality of such a pool, deep in a recess, is that it would be a scummy and disgusting pond.  Perhaps this was simply added to provide some sex appeal to the weakly written interaction between Ralston and the women.

Early screenings of the movie at international film festivals brought in rave reviews.  Indeed, this film was put on the list as an Oscar contender long before it made its way to American theaters.  But those film festivals also brought in something else.  There were reports of people who were so disgusted by the amputation scene that they were vomiting and fainting in the aisles. Perhaps I'm jaded and have seen too much violence in film, but I personally found this sequence to be exhilarating.  I found myself rooting for the character and worrying that he would pass out and be unable to finish the task at hand.

127 Hours is a fantastic survival movie.  James Franco is a master actor and Danny Boyle is one of the best directors currently working in American film.  This small story about one man literally caught between a rock and a hard place, is an inspiring piece about obsession and life.  Every person on the planet has a deep need to stay alive no matter what.  The fact that Ralston severs his own arm isn't that surprising.  Most people (at least those who read this blog) would do the same under such circumstances.  But what is surprising and refreshing about the piece instead, is the depth of the character's thoughts and the transformation that he goes through as the story unfolds.

--Jason D. Martin

Thursday, 2 December 2010

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 12/2/10

Northwest:





--International Mountain Day is nearly upon us!  We have a lot of events planned.  Tonight we will be doing a free avalanche awareness talk at Western Washington University in Viking Union Room #552.  We will be selling raffle tickets to support the Central Asia Institute and have some great prizes.  The rest of our events will take place next week on December 11th.  There will be another avalanche awareness talk (this time with beer) and there will be rock rescue clinics.  To learn more, click here.

--Prosecutors have filed felony charges against a Mercer Island man accused of threatening to kill two scoutmasters and a Boy Scout. Filing charges earlier in November, King County prosecutors claim Scott D. Wirick accosted the trio in July after they asked for directions on Tinkham Road, east of North Bend. To read more, click here.

--Washington Fish and Wildlife Officers spent part of their Thanksgiving investigating the shooting of four elk near a logging road in Grays Harbor County. Only one was taken for food, the other three were apparently shot for the fun of it and left at the side of the road to rot. "So these people are not hunters. They care less about the environment, they care less about the species and they care less about anyone else ever being able to hunt these things," said Fish and Wildlife Officer Mark James.  To read more, click here.

--The public can buy permits to cut Christmas trees on the Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest beginning Nov. 12 through Dec. 23. Cutting areas are located within national forest lands in the eastern portions of Pierce, King, Snohomish, Skagit and Whatcom counties. Maps and information about cutting areas are provided where permits are sold at ranger stations and the Verlot and Glacier Public Service Centers. Additionally, permits are sold at REI’s Alderwood Mall and the Outdoor Recreation Information Center located inside the downtown Seattle REI store. Permits cost $10 each, one tree per permit, with a tree height limit of 12 feet. The permits are nonrefundable.  To read more, click here.


Sierra:

--A Portland, Oregon man died in the eastern Sierra in the Mt. Whitney region earlier this week. Reports indicate he fell approximately 200 feet to his death.  According to the Inyo Sheriff's Department, 37-year-old Christian Meining spent Thursday night at Lower Boy Scout Lake in the Mount Whitney area. Officers said the next morning, Meining told a group of hikers that he was heading back down the trail. That was the last contact with the man.  To read more, click here.

--Another amazing story from Eastern Sierra Wildlife Care. Someone found a Golden Eagle north of Bridgeport. The injured bird made it to the wildlife care center south of Bishop at Keough's. Employees set out to save the bird.  To read more, click here.


Desert Southwest:


--Forty-two year old Heather Gray of Vancouver, BC was killed in a fall on Solar Slab in Red Rock Canyon on Thanksgiving.  Reports indicate that she fell anywhere from sixty to a hundred feet.  To read more, click here and here and here.



Graffiti in Willow Springs on Ancient Rock Art
More images of the recent graffiti can be found at Friends of Red Rock Canyon.

--A $2,500 reward is being offered to anyone who provides information leading to the arrest and conviction of those responsible for recent graffiti on three ancient rock art panels in the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.  Officials said the 1000-year old art panels were completely covered with maroon spray paint. The vandalism took place in the Willow Springs Picnic Area, officials said. The panels included pictographs, defined as paintings and drawings on rock, and petroglyphs, drawings scraped and ground onto the surface of the rock. All were severely damaged, officials said.  To read more, click here and here.


Alaska:

-- Denali National Park will be hosting a series of meetings on the change in mountaineering use fees.  These meetings will take place in December and January in Talkeetna, Anchorage, Seattle and Golden.  To learn more about the fee changes and about the meetings, please click here.


Notes from All Over:

--This year's Bozeman Ice Festival will be held from December 8-12 with the memory of Guy Lacelle and his passion for ice climbing at the fore. Lucelle was killed in an avalanche a year ago.  A retrospect of his life will be shown on December 10 in the short film "La Vie de Guy Lacelle" compiled by filmmaker Chris Alstrin of Colorado Springs, Colorado.  To read more, click here.

--Evanston, Utah resident Dennis K. Barnes was killed in an avalanche on Friday while snowmobiling in the Moffit Basin area of the High Uinta Wilderness not far from the Utah-Wyoming border, Summit County Sheriff’s officials reported over the weekend.  To read more, click here.

--Ubber climber, Colin Haley, made the first solo ascent of Cerro Stanhardt in Patagonia via the Exocet route (V, WI5, 5.9) last weekend.  Cerro Stanhardt is the stands right next to Cerro Torre and Cerro Egger.  Haley left camp at 4am and reached the summit of the peak right around 4pm.  He was able to get back to camp before nightfall.  To read more, click here and here.

--Telluride Ski Resort announced today that it is cancelling its backcountry guide program in the Bear Creek drainage, which is located immediately east of the ski area. The resort cited a lack of alignment with private owners of mining claims in the drainage. The Resort was originally encouraged by the U.S. Forest Service to provide a guide service to help manage the growing use of the backcountry area. "Telluride Ski Resort believed it was providing a much needed public service which would help people learn to safely navigate the area," said Resort CEO Dave Riley. "However, certain owners of mining claims, Irene West, Tom Chapman, and Ron Curry, have not accepted our offer to provide insurance and indemnification agreements in return for access privileges across their property."  To read more, click here.

--And lastly, Rehinhold Messner was listed as the "Badass of the Week" on the "Badass of the Week" website.  This is a very funny, albeit sometimes crass, look at the father of modern Himalayan alpinism.  To read the article, click here.

Wednesday, 1 December 2010

Conditions Report - December 1st 2010

NORTHWEST:

--Check out this post for Snoqualmie Mountain. Looks like it's not quite filled in, but it won't take much now.

--What's going on with Silver Basin? Find out here. Crystal Mountain claims, "We still have many closed areas, including Exterminator, Bull Run and Kelly's Gap, not to mention Bear Pits, Brand X, etc.". Don't get your pass revoked. Click here.


Vantage ice conditions. Photo credit phil_tatman.

-- Eastern WA ice is hit-or-miss. Check out this report here. Looks like the bottom 30 feet of Arctic Grail is OK. Consider driving a *few* hours farther to Hyalite Canyon. Click here for a good Hyalite TR. Also check out AAI Program Coordinator Andrew Yasso's Pan Dome ascent on Baker.

--Forecast for the West Slope of the Cascades.

--Forecast for the East Slope of the Cascades.

--Webcam for Leavenworth and the Stuart Range.

--Forecast for Mount Rainier.-- Route and Conditions Report from Mt. Baker Rangers: Mount Baker Climbing Blog.

--Forest Service Road Report for Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.

--Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams conditions and recreation report.

--Webcams for Mount Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, Leavenworth.

--An up-to-date ski and snow report for the Northwest may be found here.

--Up-to-date Pacific Northwest ice conditions may be found here.

RED ROCK CANYON:


--The scenic loop drive now closes at 5pm, effective Monday September 20th. See this thread and the BLM site for more information.

--Forecast and average temperatures for Red Rock Canyon.

--Webcam for Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.--The late exit and overnight permit number for Red Rock Canyon is 702-515-5050. If there is any chance that you will be inside the park after closing, be sure to call this number so that you don't get a ticket.--The entrance to the scenic drive had a parking area for those who wanted to carpool up until approximately April of 2009. That lot has now become employee parking and people who want to carpool are required to park at the lot outside the Scenic Drive exit.

--The scenic drive currently opens its gates at 6 in the morning.

JOSHUA TREE:


--Forecast and average temperatures for Joshua Tree National Park.

--Webcam for Joshua Tree National Park.


SIERRA:

--Check out some beautiful pictures of a snow-covered Yosemite here. Seriously awesome photos.

--For up-to-date avalanche and weather reports in the Eastern Sierra, click here.

--Webcams for Bishop, June Lake, Mammoth Mountain, Mono Lake, Tioga Pass.

ALASKA RANGE:

--Conditions in the range are not currently available.  But we are taking reservations for both Alaska Range Ascents and Denali trips.  To learn more, click here.  We will begin regular conditions reports in the Alaska Range in late April.

ALPS:


--Chamonix and Mont Blanc Regional Forecasts may be found here.

--Webcams for Chamonix Valley, Zermatt and the Matterhorn.