Monday, 13 December 2010

The Indespensables

We all have them. They are the luxury items that you absolutely must have on every trip.

They are the indispensables.

In climbing, we always worry about weight. Every single item that we carry costs us energy, so every single item that we carry should be valuable to us.

I have a few items that are absolutely and utterly indispensable for longer trips. These aren't always the lightest items, but for me, they are completely indispensable. I always take the proceeding items:
  1. a book
  2. a jetboil and lots of tea
  3. a pee bottle
  4. down booties or flip flops
  5. good chocolate
I am terrified of tent time. I am terrified of knowing how many stitches are in my tent because I don't have anything but counting them to occupy my time. And as you know, sometimes the weather causes us to be trapped in a tent for anything from a few hours to a few days. As a result there are two items that I will always have with me. First, a book and second, a jetboil with lots of tea.

Books can be heavy, but they are literally worth their weight in gold when there is a storm. If you are in the middle of a novel, don't be afraid to cut a book in half in order to avoid carrying some of the weight. I often slice books in half and then put duct tape on the remaining spine to ensure that it doesn't fall apart.

I bring a jetboil with lots of tea because a jetboil can easily be used in a tent's vestibule. When I'm sitting in my tent for hours on end, drinking tea not only keeps me warm, but helps to keep me hydrated and occupied. And it tastes good too...

At the ripe old age of 36, I've become lazy. I do not want to get out of my tent at the middle of the night to use the bathroom...indeed, I don't want to get out of my sleeping bag. As such, I carry a pee bottle on most of my mountaineering trips. Men have it a little bit easier with pee bottles than women do. If men get really good at using them, they don't have to get out of their sleeping bags. Women usually require a pee funnel (something that most female guides consider an indispensable). The reality is, that I find a pee bottle so indispensable to my happiness on trips, that I would use one at home if my wife would let me. She doesn't...and has threatened divorce if I even think of trying to use a pee bottle in bed.

Early in the season I like to bring down booties. These provide a great way to get out of your boots when it's snowy. Later in the season, when I can camp on dry dirt, I like to bring a pair of flip flops for the same reason. These items provide my boots the opportunity to dry and my feet the opportunity to breathe.

And lastly, I find good chocolate to be indispensable in the mountains. Why? For two reasons. First, it tastes really good and I have a sweet tooth. And second, eating fat before going to bed can help you keep warm at night. When your metabolism is at work breaking down fatty foods, it warms your body in the same manner as light exercise. It's hard to sleep whil excercising, but not so hard when you're just digesting.

While I consider each of these items to be indispensable on multi-day mountaineering trips, I consider all of them to be completely dispensible on short, fast and light alpine climbing trips. On such trips, I carry as little as possible. And when I say as little as possible, I mean as little as possible. This may mean leaving everything from the toothbrush to the sleeping bag behind.

Everybody has luxuries that they consider to be indispensible. The goal in creating a list of indispensible items is to really think about things that you absolutely must have in order to be comfortable. And your indispensable list should be very very short...

--Jason D. Martin

Sunday, 12 December 2010

December and January Climbing Events

-- Dec 9-12 -- Bozeman, MT -- Bozeman Ice Fest


-- Dec 12 -- Sandstone, MN -- Sandstone Ice Festival 

-- Jan 6-9 -- Ouray, CO -- Ouray Ice Fest


-- Jan 11-25 -- Tanzania -- Climb to Fight Breast Cancer

-- Jan 14 -- Nevada City, CA --  Wild and Scenic Film Festival 

Saturday, 11 December 2010

Return to Whiteside



High up on Traditions
    For an entire week prior, the feeling in my stomach alternated from queasy fear to unbridled excitement. It was finally happening. I was going back to Whiteside but, this time, to the imposing Southeast Face, an eight hundred foot quartz diorite monstrosity known for its bold run outs. “SF” had set up the plans. We would leave from Athens Saturday night, camp on nearby

Ice Climbing

Never in my life have I been so cold or so hot in the same 10 minutes as I have been ice climbing. If you don’t like the cold, and cannot tolerate some level of being uncomfortable, become a rat for the winter. Otherwise, welcome to one of the most demanding, exhilarating, and beautiful forms of climbing. This article is intended to describe the what and the how as you move to the ‘sickle sport.




Equipment
You are going to need a lot of stuff. There is no way around it. If you are a skier then you probably have a good start on the clothing. Think warm, layered. Think waterproof. Believe it or not, the ice forms from water, and I have even done climbs in the late season where a river of water cascaded down over my ice screws. Many climbers are moving over to Schoeller fabric which is very water resistant and very breathable. It’s also very expensive. Make sure you get a pair of gators to protect your pants and keep the snow out on the approach.

Ok, so you are dressed. Your hat fits beneath your helmet and your over-jacket is big enough to wear a fleece under it. You bought one of those cliché puffy jackets for belaying. Awesome.
Besides clothing, what are the four most important equipment items: Gloves, Tools, Crampons, and Boots.
The last three you can rent, but the Gloves you are going to need to buy. Don’t skimp out. You are going to need something that is reasonably warm, has a leather palm, and is waterproof. I have a set of Schoeller gloves, they are great. One trick to waterproof the leather is to treat it with Nickwax boot wax the night before every climb; you will find that this even makes the leather tacky. Many climbers use a liner glove inside their outer shell, myself included. This is handy if you like the technique of taking off your gloves to place a screw. You will find that a sweaty palm is pretty hard to put back inside your glove when you are hanging on your axes, pumped silly.

Ice Axes. There are a number of commercially available axes with flashy colors and even flashier names. Find a local shop and try them out. Many will lend you them for a day. Don’t skimp on the tools either. I broke the head off my first set, for which I paid a grand sum of $60. You are also going to need leashes for those axes, because going leash-less is sort of impractical if you are just starting out. I use leashes that easily detach from my axe which is great. Make sure you can get out of your leash in whatever method you choose under duress.
Crampons – Again, renting is a practical method to choose the right ones for you. Some people like mono, some go for the dual points. Most people start with the dual which makes a more stable platform for throwing your axes. Manufacturers make crampons which switch from one to the other, which may be a good long-term solution. Getting crampons that at least have replaceable front points is a good idea.
Boots – Like climbing shoes, fit is everything. There are plastics and leathers and all different fits, wide to narrow. Try to find something that has enough room in the toe box because you will be kicking into ice with these things, and you don’t want to bash your little toes to heck. It’s a good idea to have the socks you will be wearing out there when you try the boots on, a thin liner sock and a great big thick sock. I have a pair of Thinsulate socks that are great. Leathers tend to flex more and are easier in my opinion on approaches, especially if the approach is rocky rather than snowy. Plastics are stiffer and some people swear that this makes them more stable to kick and climb in.

How Now, Brown Cow?
Ok, so now you have all the gear. If you haven’t figured it out yet, you are going to need to actually live near ice to climb it. There are no gyms (yet) that offer climbing so you are just going to have to suck it up and go outside. Don’t worry, your Wii isn’t going anywhere, and besides, WI is much more interesting.
Due to the risk involved in ice climbing I chose to take lessons from a professional guide and it was worth every penny. I learned more about how to read the ice and actual climbing techniques than I could have learned in 1 or 2 years on my own. If you have someone who has been out there on the ice for years who wants to mentor you, that is probably also fine. What I wouldn’t do is head out there to lead Tuckerman’s ravine thinking you are such a good rock climber that your skills will translate. I don’t care if you are a 5.11 trad climber; ice is DIFFERENT.

So you are geared up, tied in, and axes are in hand. A professional is holding the rope for you. What is he likely to tell you? Swing seldom. Swing hard. Aim for concavities in the ice, not convexities. If you find nothing but convex ice, you are going to have to chuck a few dinner plates before your axe will sink in. For every one ice axe stick you should move both your feet up. Kick your feet in hard and with the same precision as your axes. Try to keep your body in a “tripod” stance with your legs at shoulder width and your axe(s) towards the center. Try to keep your feet at the same level when you throw your axe. Keep your heels down as much as possible.

You have reached the top of the formation and now you have to pull over the bulge at the top, this is often the hardest part. Get your tool up and above the bulge as high as you can. Step high and mantle to the top. This will feel awkward. Welcome to the club, you just finished your first ice climb. You are probably pumped silly, and your body reveals muscles you never knew you had. Your calves are pumped too, oddly.
Off on your own
So now you want to go out there and see what its really like, out from under the wing of a seasoned professional. The weird thing about ice is that it is a scarce commodity, and it degrades when you climb on it. Its funny, because if hunks of rock came off a rock cliff and hit you in the face you would never go back there and climb. For ice this is status quo.
Keep in mind that as a beginner, you are going to be throwing less accurately and insisting on more secure placements to move ever upwards. This may be hard on the ice that someone with a lighter hand would just zoom through. If the ice is constantly dinner-plating, do what I do, go for a hike. Find some other ice or just forget it for the day. Save the ice today so that tomorrow it will be in shape to climb. Much of ice climbing (at least for me) is aesthetics, and breaking off a curtain that is about to touch down is bad not only form, and ruins some of the beauty.
The scarcity of ice makes ice climbers somewhat secretive about their crags. If you do your best to keep the exposure to those special places down you will find that you will earn respect of those who can help you to succeed on ice. Publishing GPS coordinates of a lesser-known crag is probably bad form. Showing your buddy some backcountry ice in person, or describing a route to him with a topo map and a cup of coffee is probably a better idea. There are many mentor-level climbers out there who are willing to show you the ropes if you don’t stomp on their daisies.

Where does this bring us?
Ice climbing is an adventurous activity. Many crags are hard to get to, the rewards of a good climb are enormous. I personally see ice as a doorway to bigger and better ascents, as a way to get stronger in the winter without being plagued with flappers and annoyed by chalky holds. The beauty of movement on the ice and a good hammer throw relates well to the splendor of our natural world in its dormant state.

Weekend Warrior - Videos To Get You Stoked!

Albert Einstein once said, "do not worry about your problems with mathematics, I assure you mine are far greater."  I believe that the following individual has the right to say, "do not worry about your problems on boulders, I assure you mine are far greater."  Although this little guy may have the right to say it, I think that at the young age of 3 he does not possess the vocabulary to say it. 

Viewer beware: Adorableness ensues.




--Andrew Yasso, Program Coordinator

Friday, 10 December 2010

Outdoor Book Award Roundup - 2010

Every year a number of outdoor writers compete for fame and perhaps a few extra dollars by submitting their books to three different competitions.

In order of fame, the biggest is perhaps the most well-known is the Boardman-Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature.  This is an award that has been has been established in remembrance for Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker, who were lost on Mount Everest in 1982.

The Banff Mountain Film and Mountain Book Festivals happen every year simultaneously in Banff, Alberta.  The Banff Mountain Book Festival is the biggest outdoor literature competition in North America.  This year marked the seventeenth year of this festival.

The National Outdoor Book Award, or NOBA, is a smaller award bestowed on authors and publishers by individuals in the world of outdoor education. The most useful part of the NOBA award for readers is the way that it is broken down.  There are more categories in this particular competition than in any of the others.

Following is a breakdown of this year's winners for each of these prestigious competitions.


Boardman-Tasker Award

Ron Fawcett: Rock Athlete. By Ron Fawcett with Ed Douglas

Banff Mountain Book Festival Awards


Grand Prize. Winner. The Stone Masters: California Climbing in the Seventies. By John Long and Dean Fidelman.

Mountain Literature. Winner. Walking Home.  By Lynn Schooler

Adventure Travel. Winner. Running Dry: A Journey from the Source to Sea Down the Colorado River. By Jon Waterman

Mountain Image.  Winner.  Polar Obsession.  By Paul Nicklen.

Mountain Exposition.  Winner.  Canadian Rock: Select Climbs of the West. By Kevin McLain.

Special Jury Mention.  The Tiger: A True Story of Vengeance and Survival. By John Vaillant.

National Outdoor Book Awards


Nature and the Environment.  Winner.  Adventures Among Ants.  By Mark W. Moffett.

Natural History Literature.  Winner.  An Entirely Synthetic Fish.  By Anders Halverson.

Natural History Literature.  Winner.  The Sound of a Wild Snail Eating.  By Elisabeth Tova Bailey. 

Outdoor Literature.  Winner.  Kook.  By Peter Heller.  

Outdoor Literature.  Honorable Mention.  Just Passin' Thru.  By Winton Porter.  

History/Biography.  Winner.  Pilgrims of the Vertical.  By Joseph E. Taylor III.

History/Biography.  Honorable Mention.  The Last Man on the Mountain.  By Jennifer Jordan.

History Biography.  Honorable Mention.  Arctic Labyrinth.  By Glyn Williams

Classic.  Winner.  Annapurna.  By Maurice Herzog.

Children Books.  Winner.  Camping With the President.  By Ginger Wadsworth.

Children Books.  Winner.  Captain Mac:  The Life of Donald Baxter MacMillan.  By Mary Morton

Children Books.  Honorable Mention.  An Egret's Day.  Poems by Jane Yolen.

Design and Artistic Merit.  Winner.  Freshwater Fish of the Northeast.  Illustrated by Matt Patterson. 

Nature Guidebooks.  Winner.  Tracks and Sign of Insects.  By Charley Eiseman and Noah Charney.

Nature Guidebooks.  Honorable Mention.  Night Sky.  By Jonathan Poppele. 

Nature Guidebooks.  Honorable Mention.  Molt in North American Birds.  By Steven N. G. Howell.

Outdoor Adventure Guidebooks.  Winner.  Exploring Havasupai. By Greg Witt.

Instructional Category.  Winner.  Sport Climbing.  By Andrew Bisharat. 

--Jason D. Martin

Thursday, 9 December 2010

Climbing and Outdoor News from Here and Abroad - 12/9/10

Northwest:


--This Saturday is International Mountain Day.  The American Alpine Institute will be offering a series of free rock rescue and avalanche awareness seminars.  To learn more, click here.

--A Marysville man who went missing during a weekend hike in eastern Snohomish County has been found dead. Jack LaMont, 54, was missing for two days before his body was found on Morning Start Peak.  It is not clear how he died. To read more, click here.

--The greatest threat to the busiest road in Mount Rainier National Park is the mountain itself.  Receding glaciers, loose rocks and boulders, glacial outbursts and debris flows could combine to cut off Nisqually-Paradise Road. Half the 1.2 million people who typically visit the park each year travel that roadway.  To read more, click here.

--Anyone interested in running a wilderness resort needs to look no further than Washington's rugged North Cascades, where the National Park Service is seeking bidders to manage a twenty-one room hotel/lodge, restaurant and general store in the remote community of Stehekin.  Stehekin is a remote collection of homes and summer cabins surrounded by mountain peaks. Perched at the north end of Lake Chelan, the area is reachable only by boat, floatplane or on foot.  To read more, click here.

Sierra:

--Park staff encountered a man speeding into the park though the exit side of the Ash Mountain entrance station in Sequoia National Park in Three Rivers around 2 p.m. on November 25th, Protection rangers responded and found the man near the Ash Mountain Visitor Center, where other park staff had encountered him a few minutes earlier. When they arrived, the man threw a pistol to the ground. Additional rangers arrived on scene within moments, and he was taken into custody without further incident. After further investigation, it was found that the man, a 42-year-old Sacramento resident, had discharged at least eight rounds in the vicinity of the visitor center while shouting about the end of the world and Armageddon.  To read more, click here.

Todd Skinner from the Todd Skinner Foundation

--In 2006, the climbing community lost a legend.  Todd Skinner was killed in a tragic rappelling accident in Yosemite.  Recently, the "climbing rap star" Odub, created a tribute song with singer songwriter Misty Murphy. To hear the song, check out the thread on it at supertopo.com.

--Weather forecasters, meteorologists and others have pointed to the La Nina effect in the Pacific Ocean and the likely impacts of colder than normal temperatures and below average snowfall. However, the eastern Sierra sits  in the middle of the different effects since higher than normal precipitation may hit the Pacific Northwest but not southern California. LADWP's website shows a pretty good start to Sierra winter snowpack. To read more, click here.

Desert Southwest:

An example of the vandalism in Red Rock from the Friends of Red Rock

--The Las Vegas Metro Police Department has identified one of the taggers believed responsible for graffiti that marred a collection of prehistoric artwork at the Red Rock Canyon. A warrant for the arrest of a 17-year-old known as "Pee Wee" was pending, said Detective Scott Black of the Las Vegas police Graffiti Investigations Detail. Because of his age, police could not release his name. To read more, click here.


--There's an area just outside of Las Vegas that could soon become a preservation site. Last week, the proposed Tulle Springs National Monument showcased one of its long-time residents.  A pre-historic mammoth tusk was revealed to community leaders during a push to recognize the valuable fossil beds.  The technical term we have for animals likes this is "big suckers." A brushing away of the soil revealed a giant mammoth tusk six to seven feet long.  To read more, click here.

Himalaya:

--A team of  mountain rescuers have begun searching for a veteran Sherpa guide who has scaled Mount Everest 19 times and went missing last month, officials said Tuesday.  Laxman Bhattarai of Nepal's tourism ministry said the team of seven rescuers has already reached 23,380-foot Mount Baruntse and has begun to search on foot. To read more, click here.

--Kyle Dempster and Bruce Normand completed two new routes on Mt. Grosvenor (20,918') and Mt. Edgar (21,712') in the Gongga Shan Massif, Sichuan Province, China. Each of the two climb were the second successful ascents of the peaks.  To read more, click here.

Notes from All Over:

--Kyle Shellberg of Golden, Colorado was killed on Sunday in an avalanche in the Dry Gulch area near the Continental Divide.  Shellberg is the third avalanche victim in North America in the 2010/11 winter season.  To read more, click here.

--Wolf Creek ski patrol director Scott Kay was wearing an Avalung breathing device when he was killed by a soft snow avalanche on Nov. 22, but was not able to deploy the Avalung before he was buried, according to a technical report posted by the Colorado Avalanche Information Center. According to the CAIC report, the mouthpiece was still secured in the shoulder pack of the harness when Kay was uncovered by rescue workers.  To read more, click here.

--Brie, the avalanche rescue dog, located a snow-bound body, barked three times to alert human searchers, and began digging out the “victim” at the top of Hidden Peak near Alta, Utah. The avalanche rescue drill was the climax of a day of presentations on how avalanche professionals reduce the risk of “white death” in the canyons of the Wasatch Mountains.  To read more, click here.

--The countdown to the 2011 Ice Climbing World Cup (January 8-March 8) has begun. For the first time, an event will be held in Asia, hosted by the Korean Alpine Federation. There will be Lead and Speed competitions in Cheongsong, Korea, as well as the established events across Europe.  The UIAA would like to expand the circuit further, and organize or certify some North American events in order to make them part of the Ice Climbing World Cup. David Dornian of the Alpine Club of Canada, and newest member of the UIAA Ice Climbing Commission, explains the challenges the UIAA may face in bringing the UIAA World Cup brand across the Atlantic.  To read more, click here.

Photo by Jason Martin

--Geologists listening in on “icequakes” that reverberate through glaciers have developed a model that can predict a collapse up to fifteen days before it happens, the team reports in a new study.
With that kind of knowledge, villages could be evacuated and roads closed in avalanche-prone areas.  To read more, click here.

--The Russian Mountaineering Federation reports on the opening of a rescue shelter on Mount Elbrus: The built Rescue Shelter Red Fox 5300 is first in Europe and second in the world as for the altitude, it was opened on the saddle of Elbrus. The route to Elbrus is the most popular one, every year more than 7000 people ascend the summit.  To read more, click here.