Sunday, 9 January 2011

Guidebook: Espolones de San Gabriel - Espelon (5.7), La Raya (5.8)

 Espolones de San Gabriel

Approach: From Santiago head to Cajon de Maipo toward San Gabriel. By car, get directions in advance. By the Metro, get to the Los Mercedes subway stop. Head upstairs and grab a Collectivo (fixed-price taxi) to San Gabriel (as of Jan 2011, about 2500 pesos). The ride takes about an hour (maybe a bit less). Be sure to ask the driver to stop at the last bridge / stream
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January and February Climbing Events


-- Jan 6-9 -- Ouray, CO -- Ouray Ice Fest

-- Jan 7 -- Golden, CO -- AAC Sun Valley Dinner

-- Jan 15-16 -- Green Bay, WI -- Ice Pit Festival 

-- Jan 17 -- Seattle, WA -- Denali NP Open House Meeting On Climbing Fees

-- Jan 18 -- Golden, CO -- Denali NP Open House Meeting On Climbing Fees

-- Jan 11-25 -- Tanzania -- Climb to Fight Breast Cancer

-- Jan 13 -- Seattle, WA -- Travel Medicine Seminar 

-- Jan 14 -- Nevada City, CA --  Wild and Scenic Film Festival

-- Jan 20 -- Portland, OR -- Telluride Mountain Film Fest

-- Jan 22 -- Bellingham, WA -- Northwest Collegiate Climbing Challenge (WWU)

-- Jan 27 -- Seattle, WA -- Altitude Illness Seminar

-- Jan 29 -- Truckee, CA --  Lost Trail Lodge Ice Climbing

-- Feb 4 -- Munising, Michigan -- Michigan Ice Fest

-- Feb 5 -- Mammoth, CA -- (Ski Mountaineering) Mammoth Chase  

-- Feb 12-13 -- Alpental, WA -- VertFest sponsored by OR

-- Feb 12 -- Seattle, WA -- Northwest Collegiate Climbing Challenge (UW)

-- Feb 18 - 21-- Cody, WY -- 13th Annual "Waterfall Ice" Fest

-- Feb 26 -- Seattle, WA -- AAC Annual Benefit and Awards Dinner


FOR MARCH: Red Rock Rendezvous....Don't forget that there is a lot going on in Las Vegas in mid to late March. Following is a quick breakdown of everything that is happening:
 

Saturday, 8 January 2011

Weekend Warrior - Videos To Get You Stoked!

Anyone who has skied the at the Mt. Baker Ski Area, has probably dreamed of skiing the massive glaciated peak that looms over the slopes.  At 9,127 feet, Mt. Shuksan is one of the taller non-volcanic peaks in Washington, and is the most photographed mountains in the world.  One look at it will explain why, regardless of its ease of access.  Here is a great video from some people who skied Mt. Shuksan, something we would be happy to help you do!




--Andrew Yasso, Program Coordinator

Friday, 7 January 2011

Denali NPS Invites Public to January Open Houses on Mountaineering Fee

The American Alpine Institute just received the following email from Denali National Park:

The National Park Service (NPS) is examining approaches to recover more of the cost of the mountaineering program in Denali National Park and Preserve. As part of the public involvement process, the NPS is holding two public open houses in January to provide information on the mountaineering program and how the special mountaineering use fee is utilized. The cities, dates, locations, and times of the open houses are:
  • Seattle, Washington – Monday, January 17, REI Flagship Store, 222 Yale Ave. N, 6:00 – 9:00 p.m.
  • Golden, Colorado – Tuesday, January 18, American Mountaineering Center, 710 10th St., 6:00 – 9:00 p.m.
At 7:00 p.m. Denali staff will give one 30-40 minute presentation on the mountaineering program and fee at each open house. Official public testimony will not be taken, but park staff will be available before and after the presentation to provide information and answer questions.

Currently each climber of Mt. McKinley and Mt. Foraker pays a cost recovery mountaineering use fee of $200. Income from this special use fee helps fund some of the cost of the mountaineering program, including preventative search and rescue (PSAR) education, training for rescue personnel, positioning of patrol/rescue personnel (including volunteers) at critical high altitude locations on the mountain, the CMC (human waste) program, and administrative support. Since the cost recovery fee was implemented in 1995, the number of fatalities and major injuries has decreased significantly. This is directly attributable to the increased educational and PSAR efforts made possible through the cost recovery program.

When the special use fee was initially established it covered approximately 30% of the cost of this specialized program. Even though the fee was increased from $150 to $200 in 2005, current fee revenue only covers 17% of the cost. McKinley/Foraker climbers make up less than 1⁄2 of 1 percent of the park’s visitors, and in 2011 Denali will expend approximately $1,200 in direct support of each permitted climber. The average cost for all other visitors is expected to be about $37. In recent years, the park has diverted funds from other critical park programs in order to fully fund the mountaineering program. This has negatively impacted funding available for interpretation, wildlife protection, resource management, and maintenance.

The NPS is seeking input and ideas regarding two key questions:     
  1. Is the current mountaineering program the most cost effective efficient and safe program we can devise?
  2. How much of the cost should be recovered from users, and what options are there for how those costs can be distributed?
Comments from the public will be accepted through January 31, 2011.  Comments may be submitted via email to: DENA_mountainfeecomments@nps.gov or faxed to (907) 683-9612. They may also be sent to: Superintendent, Denali National Park and Preserve, P.O. Box 9, Denali Park, AK 99755.

For additional information on the mountaineering program or the cost recovery special use fee visit the park website at www. nps.gov/dena. If you have questions about the fee you may contact Chief Ranger Pete Armington at (907) 683-9521 or peter_armington@nps.gov. Media inquiries should be directed to Public Affairs Officer Kris Fister at (907) 683-9583 or kris_fister@nps.gov.

We have been covering this particular issue for some period of time.  To learn more about this issue and how to respond to it, please click here.

--Jason D. Martin

Wilderness Navigation - An Overview

There are many parts to wilderness navigation, but four tools stand out as being the most important.  First, a good topographical map.  Second, a compass.  Third, an altimeter.  And fourth a GPS unit.   Each of these items is a complex tool that takes a great deal of time and energy to use effectively.

The following video, made by the owner of Midwest Mountaineering, Rod Johnson, is a brief overview of the components required for successful wilderness navigation.



The map, the compass, the altimeter and the GPS must all be used in conjunction to one another.  A climber should never depend solely on one of these items, but must practice using them as complimentary tools.

The best time to practice with navigation tools is when you need them the least.  When the weather is good and it is possible to see everything, then there is little need for these.  But when the weather is good, it is also possible to see what real-life features look like on a map. Understanding what the real-world looks like vs. the world in a white-out when you are completely reliant on your understanding of your tools is incredibly important.  If you can get your systems worked out in perfect weather, then you'll be ready for it when things are less than perfect...

--Jason D. Martin

Thursday, 6 January 2011

Public Scoping - Summit-at-Snoqualmie Development

The American Alpine Institute just received the following email from Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest:

Dear Interested Party:

The Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest is initiating an environmental analysis required by the National Environmental Policy Act (NEPA) in response to a proposal for new projects in the Summit-at-Snoqualmie ski area. The ski area is permitted to CNL Income Snoqualmie, LLC and operated by Ski Lifts, Inc., who submitted the proposal. The environmental analysis will analyze and disclose the potential impacts of amending the ski area’s master development plan (MDP). The proposed amendment includes the relocation and construction of a previously approved guest services building at the Silver Fir base. It also includes the construction of a parking lot, and the grooming of three different ski trails. These projects are described below in the Proposed Action section and are illustrated in the enclosed figures.

The Summit-at-Snoqualmie ski area is located on Snoqualmie Pass in the Cascade Mountain Range of western Washington, approximately 25 miles east of North Bend, Washington. The Summit-at-Snoqualmie Special Use Permit Area encompasses approximately 1,834 acres of National Forest System (NFS) lands. These acres are on the Snoqualmie Ranger District of the Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest and Cle Elum Ranger District of the Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forests.

NEPA Process

MDPs are a requirement for ski areas permitted to operate on National Forest System lands, as stipulated in their permits.  They are intended to demonstrate the ability of a ski area to serve the needs of the recreating public, justify the commitment of National Forest System resources in the permit area, and assist the Forest Service and the ski area in long-range (10 to 15 years) planning of how best to invest in capital improvements. The current master development plan (The Summit-at-Snoqualmie Master Development Plan Proposal Final Environmental Impact Statement, September 2008) was accepted by the Forest, and projects affecting National Forest System resources were approved, in a Record of Decision (ROD) issued on October 21, 2008.  The MDP reflected Ski Lifts, Inc.’s views on long-term development at the ski area at that time.  

Given the complex and dynamic setting within which ski areas operate, it is necessary to amend and update MDPs over time.  In fact, one of the projects included in this proposal was approved in the 2008 ROD but has been modified due to changed conditions or new information.  The Forest Service has accepted an MDP amendment proposal submitted by Ski Lifts, Inc. in April 2010.  The proposal identified two projects that the ski area hopes to implement over the next three years.  These projects are described in detail below. 

Purpose and Need for Action

The purpose and need for action are based on the existing conditions at The Summit-at-Snoqualmie and the desired conditions that lead to a proposed action.  The purpose and need has two elements:
1.        There is a need for guest services in a location that provides a convenient, safe, and accessible recreation experience to ski users.

A 19,818 square foot expansion of the existing outpost at the Silver Fir base area was approved under the Summit-at-Snoqualmie Master Development Plan Proposal Record of Decision (2008). The existing location of the outpost is inferior because it is inconvenient and creates a public safety hazard. Guests are required to leave the ski run, walk around the bottom terminal and maze and then cross a road to reach the outpost.

2.        There is a need for ski runs that better accommodate beginner and intermediate skiers and snowboarders in the Silver Fir area.

Approximately 2 acres have been identified as problem areas for routine maintenance (Grading Areas B and C). The steep quality of the slope coupled with extremely rocky terrain makes this area difficult to groom for ski area users and unfeasible to maintain during low snow conditions. Trails are groomed to provide consistent, easily navigated terrain. Existing conditions of ski trails are steep, rocky, and narrow, with natural hazards that can make it difficult to navigate for beginner and intermediate users.

Proposed Action

The proposed amendment includes two elements. Implementation of all pertinent mitigation measures required by the October 2008 ROD would be part of each project.  Figure 1 is an overview map that identifies generally where these projects are located within the ski area.  It indicates the location of grading area A, the guest services lodge construction, and grading areas B and C west of the lodge site.  More detailed information on the guest services lodge construction, as currently approved, is available in the MDP and ROD.

Guest Services Lodge and Grading Area A

Changes from the 2008 approved project, as described in the MDP, include:

        Dropping plans approved in the MDP and ROD to expand the existing Silver Fir outpost (19,818 sq. ft) into a core guest services area.

        Removing the existing outpost and converting the area to parking.

        Grading approximately 1.5 acres of land to construct a new, but smaller (10,000 sq ft.) guest services lodge (Grading Area A).

        Constructing a new 10,000 square foot, two-story lodge on NFS land. A 7,000 square foot main floor would accommodate approximately 200 restaurant seats; a 3,000 square foot bottom floor would house bathrooms, rentals, retail, guest services, and provide storage; and a 5,000 square foot heated plaza and stairs would provide recreation users direct access to the loading area of the lift (maze) and parking.Implementation of the new Silver Fir Lodge is expected to occur between summer 2011 and fall 2012.

Figure 2 shows the location of Grading Area A, the proposed location of the new lodge, and the existing outpost/proposed parking area.

Grading Areas B and C

This is a new project not previously proposed in the 2008 ROD. The proposal is to grade approximately 1.75 acres of land located north along the slope of the Silver Fir Express lift (Grading Area B). There are three main cut areas that will be used to push material down into the two main fill areas (Figures 4 and 5). The majority of the fill material is expected to be shale from the south section as shown in Section A-A (Figure 6). The other cut sections are shallower. Most cut material will be pushed to the north to fill in low spots as shown in Fill Section B-B (Figure 7). Ground disturbing work in this area includes cutting and filling approximately 1500 cubic yards of material. The Ski Area hopes to implement this cutting with a bulldozer and trackhoe, but may need to conduct blasting.

The proposal is also to grade approximately 0.25 acre of land located north of Grading Area B and south of the Central Express lift (Grading Area C). The intent of grading this section is to widen the ski run creating easier conditions for intermediate skiers and snowboarders. Implementation of Grading Areas B and C is expected to occur during summer 2011.

Figure 3 shows the locations of Grading Area B and Grading Area C at Silver Fir.

Figures 4 and 5 show the cut and fill dimensions of Grading Area B, in detail.

Figure 6 shows Cut Section A-A; Figure 7 shows Fill Section B-B.

Decision to be Made       

The Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie Forest Supervisor will be the Deciding Officer for this project.  Upon completion of the environmental analysis, the Forest Supervisor will decide whether or not to authorize the implementation of the proposed amendments to the Summit-at-Snoqualmie MDP.

Public Involvement and Request for Comments

The Forest Service is scoping for issues that the environmental analysis should address. Your input will be used to analyze the effects of the proposed action or to develop alternatives and mitigation measures. In order to ensure your comments are considered in the analysis, please respond by no later than January 20, 2011. The Forest Service expects to release a decision in spring 2011. 

n an effort to reduce paper use, the Forest Service will emphasize electronic correspondence and media throughout this project. The Forest’s website will be the primary avenue through which the Forest Service will provide information about this project. You can view this letter and subsequent documents on the Internet at www.fs.usda.gov/mbs  by clicking Projects under the Land and Resources Management link.

Electronic comments should be submitted in text (.txt), .pdf, rich text (.rtf) or Word (.doc) format via e-mail to ccreed@fs.fed.us. Written comments should be mailed or dropped off in person to Forest Supervisor, Attention: Snoqualmie Pass MDP Amendment #1 Project, at 2930 Wetmore Avenue, Suite 3A, Everett, WA 98201. Office hours for submitting hand-delivered comments are 8:00 am to 4:30 pm Monday through Friday, excluding holidays. Comments may also be faxed to (425)783-0212.

If you have questions regarding this project, please contact the project leader, Cecilia Reed at Snoqualmie Ranger District (North Bend office), by telephone (425)888-8769, or ccreed@fs.fed.us.

Comments received in response to this letter, including names and addresses of those who comment, will be part of the Project Record and available for public review.

Sincerely,
Y. Robert Iwamoto, Forest Supervisor

Figures and maps are too large to send through e-mail. You can find figures, maps, and a pdf version of this scoping letter at www.fs.usda.gov/goto/mbs/projects under the heading "Snoqualmie Pass Ski Area Master Development Plan Amendment #1." If you would like to receive a hard-copy of this letter, please refer to the contact information in the request for comments section above or send a request to this e-mail addres

Where's Matt

So here's a new blog post... It's been a while, but I figured I'd post a few things and give an update on what I'm doing. Part of the reason the blogging has been scarce is that I've been busy with school -- the other part is just laziness. Not too much exciting happened this Fall for me in the climbing world, but things have been picking up as the prime winter season kicks into gear. I had a great trip to the New River Gorge over Thanksgiving to climb gear routes. Chuck Fryberger came along and captured some awesome footage for the new film he's working on. He put together a great blog post summing up the trip. Check it out here:

http://chuckfryberger.com/blog/2010/11/30/west-by-god-virginia/

Right now I'm in Vegas bouldering around Red Rocks. I've managed a few good ascents and am hoping for a couple more before I leave in a few days. Going to scope some stuff today -- hopefully it looks good. For the first week of my trip I was climbing here with my wife Sandy -- Oh yeah, getting married was another thing that made for a busy Fall and led to no blog posts -- and with my brother and his girlfriend. We got a bit of good climbing in, but the weather was quite cold and windy. The weather has become splitter though and I've been climbing with Ethan Pringle and Steve DeLuca for the past few days. John Dickey is rolling the camera capturing some footage that I'm sure will be up sometime soon for your viewing pleasure. I have a bit of footage recorded that I'll be posting soon as well.

A final bit of news I'd like to share is my recent appearance in Boulder's local newspaper. They compiled a list of top 6 Colorado climbing achievements in the past decade and my ascent of Cheating Reality made the list. Check out the article here:

http://www.dailycamera.com/ci_17009978
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